Illiniza Sur Direct Route

The Direct Route on Illiniza Sur is a beautiful undertaking regardless of your climbing ability (see red route at right).  Rachowieki and Wagenhauser, in their book Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador,  begin their route description as follows:  "The difficult Direct Route is via the north face and begins from the Nuevos Horizontes hut then heads west into the saddle between the north and south mountains." The route then turns toward the beautiful Sur, or South Illiniza, and ascends rock strewn flanks until approaching the main couloir, or ice gulley,  as shown left.  Several hours of beautiful alpine ice climbing bring one to the summit ridge.  A short traverse then captures both the summit and a breathtaking view of the western Cordillera including Chimborazo, Cotapaxi, and Anitsana.