From the
high col camp (bottom of page), the Italian route on Alpamayo
follows the yellow line at left. The route first
ascends the prominent snow shield on 40-60 degree
snow. After crossing the bergshund, the climber rounds a corner and
suddenly can peer directly up the canalete, or canal, between
ice flutings toward
the summit. The remaining climbing consists of 7-8
pitches of technical ice between 40 and 60 degrees. This mountain is commonly referred to as the most beautiful in
the world. Expect an incredible expedition.